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And with the change in seasons, food and wine pairings move towards refreshing and fresh, so I have been inspired by classic French whites, unique Oregon white blends, and sparkling wines made in the ancestral method ~ Pet’Nat. Petillant Naturel – a French term – Food & Wine
Ideas for food always come from others for me. In this case, Instagram posts showing injection of a flavor into those sweet, succulent cherry tomatoes caught my attention. Dressing them up with a sprig of green added to their appeal.
These little tastes just pop in the mouth, literally, from the flavor injected which can be made to pair with your chosen wine. Shown here are filled with Pesto oil ~ which pairs well with aromatic, crispy whites.
And salads as well. This is, however, the start of a Baked Feta. I added the artichokes. Baked Feta
Creamy cheese, especially when baked, carmelizes and melds with the soft veggies ~ pasta can be added or scoops of this mix can be used as a topping for forcacia or crackers.
Pairs well with wines with a soft backbone; whites with stone fruit, classic acidity.
I can see in my mind’s eye, sitting down to a fresh salad and a refreshing, sparkling Pet’Nat or a creamy baked feta on toast with a classic French white on a quiet afternoon or evening. Cheers, Enjoy!!
It’s like a new centerline on a new project; it’s like a new flavored cupcake at the bakery; it’s like your first roller coaster ride.
The best part is it’s new !! And so it is with the exploration of this new grape, Trousseau.
No matter where it’s from or what it’s called, Trousseau’s flavor profile is consistently described enigmatically. It’s pale and light-bodied with intense, rich alcohol levels. It has a firm tannic grip with depth and yet weightlessness. It has aromas of deep cherry, violets, strawberry, orange marmalade, lemon peel, nutmeg, black pepper, ripe cheese, seafoam, cured meats, and aged game. It has a chewy and pithy texture with a creamy soft silky finish. (Wine Traveler, 2021)
One of the great enjoyments in life is pairing food and wine. To have the 5 tastes [sweet, sour, salt, bitter, and savory/umami] resonate or at least not be dissonant is a true joy ~ one which cooks strive for in all aspects of dining.
So when given the opportunity to make a new friend with a new grape, I began researching. These articles came up in my search ~ pairing with charcuterie, the inimatable cheese and meat tray ~ and pairing, more typically the single varietal from Jura, with that stalwart dinner, steak and red wine.
Given Trousseau’s flavor profile ambiguity, it’s no surprise that it pairs well with a wide variety of dishes. Some food compliments you may like to try are: charcuterie, Comté cheese, cow’s and creamy goats milk cheeses, game or mushroom pâtés and terrines, Chicken with Morel Mushroom, Potato Mushroom Soup, Pork Sausage, Cioppino, Steak Tartare, Basque-style Tuna and Paella with Saffron and Smoked Paprika. (Wine Traveler, 2021)
The trousseau grape yields a pale, light-bodied wine that is a far cry from the dense, concentrated beasts typically paired with steak. Yet its fresh agility combined with a savory, almost meaty quality made it a surprise hit at dinner one recent evening and an almost perfect match for the funky, mineral tanginess of Minetta’s steaks. Also on the lists at Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park and Corton, DBGB and Trestle on Tenth. (Excerpt from NYT, “From Jura, Geeky but Versatile Wines”, Eric Asimov, Sept. 2009)
The Trousseau grape is also fermented “methode ancestrale” into a beautiful Pet’Nat and also into blends ~ Iruai from the Shasta-Cascade and Textures of Pedra from Catalonia Spain. Bubbly, sparkling wines open the pairing to seafood, greens as well as spicy foods.
I’ve made a new friend ~ the Trousseau grape. To be sure, it is a very food friendly wine. But then again I really enjoy food and wine. I hope you will too.
Inspiration ~ Often comes from sources other than recipes, cookbooks. I use my Instagram account to access Restaurants, Chefs, Eater, other posts related to food, fine dining, vegan, etc.
I follow this restaurant, La Toque in Napa. This dish is part of a Tasting Menu ~ To-Go. Salmon Confit in Duck Fat with Truffle and Sauce Noire.
Many Fine Dining ~ even Michelin Star restaurants like La Toque ~ now offer To-Go menus.
Like many other changes in this Pandemic era, it is a gift to those of us who may never have the chance to dine there.
Two things come to mind ~ one, a greater chance to learn menu offerings, and two, knowing that this level of dining can be packed and sent off to be saved and/or reheated. Builds confidence for the home cook!
I am currently part of a Fish and Seafood CSA ~ and have been enjoying both the product and the opportunity to cook with excellent ingredients. Inspired as I described above, I went about finding techniques, ratios and recipes which would help me replicate this dish.
Confit of Salmon was easy ~ I used the sous vide method ~ I started by removing the skin (saving same to crisp). I then did a salt/sugar cure (50/50 salt/brown sugar) for no more than 20 minutes, rinsing and patting dry. I returned the fish open, uncovered to the refrigerator ~ allowing the pellicule to form. A textured surface for product going into a sous vide eliminates any mushiness coming out ~ unless of course the time and temperature are not correct.
Serious Eats I used the guide from this post regulating time and temperture for my desired finish on the salmon. Note ~ I also used the water replacement method, not the vaccum seal. [Remember, Sous Vide is a technique, not an implement.]
Pictured on Left is Curing to form a Pellicule. Pictured on Right is ready to be Sous Vide in Duck Fat.
I did 3 portions at 46 degrees C (115 degrees F) for 45 minutes ~ shocking ice bath finish.
These temperatures don’t rise above the 140 degree F threshold for food safety ~ hence the ice bath and return to refrigeration, or to the plate ~ all within the 4 hour window of safety.
I finished the plate with a slice of Truffle, Tarragon Beurre Blanc cream sauce and a veggie Galette. The flavor profiles are strong and rich, even though it would appear very simple. Think duck fat and cream with tarragon ~ all strong on the palate. Galettes are all crust and give both another source of butter flavor and added texture.
Full flavors of rich butter and cream as well as duck fat and earthy truffle are more prominent than the lovely salmon. Consequently, I paired this dish with a bold Sagrantino. Both the food and the wine were Yummy!!!
Wine Pairing ~ Barone Montalto, Pinot Grigio ~ Sicilian white wine with lemon zest, orange and honey ~ satiny body, rich and layered with no oak ~ vibrant acidity to pair with cheese.
Veglio, Barolo ~ king of the Italian reds from the Piedmont ~ full-bodied, with fruits and spices, from aging two years in oak barrels.
Falanghina Del Sannio ~ naturally high in acidity, this wine partners well with seafood and a wide range of salads ~ has pronounced green apple, elder flower and an excellent finish.
Tenuta di Nozzole, Chardonnay – Le Bruniche from Tuscany ~ Citrus and exotic fruit on the nose with apple and banana notes on the palate. No Oak, lets the Chard shine through! Great with Risotto.
Vigna del Lauro, Cabernet Franc from Friuli ~ Delicious dark berry flavors and pepper notes with a smooth, elegant mid-palate. Finishes with a touch of fresh herbs. Great for smoked, grilled fish.
Masciarelli – Villa Gemma Blanco ~ Trebbiano white grape ~ tangy, intense with flavors of yellow fruit, white flowers, jasmine, bananas and sliced apples.
Il Cipresso – Toscana Rosso ~ Super Tuscan with bright fruit ~ Cab Sauv, Merlot and Sangiovese blend
Tenuta di Arceno – Chianti Classico ~ a classic pairing with pasta ~ ripe berries, roses, vanilla bean and white pepper, 10 months in French Oak for hints of spice and clove.
Vermentino ~ commonly comes from the island of Sardinia ~ a light white wine redolent of lemon and lime with an almost salty mineral twang, perfect to pair with a Seafood Boil.
Barbera ~ a well structured wine, fragrant and intense ~ will match international dishes, such as Zuppa di Cozze – Mussels in Tomato with Fennel.
Corte Del Sole ~ Soave ~ Ideal for Appetizer, fish dishes, like Tuna stuffed Lemon ~ Floral bouquet, hazelnut/almond and mineral flavors. A long finish.
Veglio ~ Nebbiolo D’Alba ~ Intense and fruity ~ dry with a slightly acidic mouthfeel ~ tannic for good structure ~ well balanced. Enjoy with rich sauces and aged cheese ~ like Tomato Bruschetta.